I’m writing an article on best miter saws for a couple of reasons. First, because they’re one of the most popular power tools for DIYers and contractors. Second, because I got a bit of a chewing out from a visitor to the site 😉
When I wrote about best bandsaws I mentioned table saws as another option for a first woodworking saw, but I didn’t mention miter saws. The guy thought I should have. He has a point! I don’t think they are better than a bandsaw or table saw for someone who wants to concentrate on shop-type woodworking — but they’re just about unbeatable for DIY and site work, so here we go.
If you’re only interested in my top picks I’ve put some direct links here. If you want to know what I think you should look for in a miter saw and what features make some better than others, read on…
Best Miter Saws: My Top 3
Best Budget: Skil 10″ Sliding Compound Miter Saw
Best Overall: DeWalt 12” Sliding Compound Miter Saw
Best Cordless: Bosch Cordless Glide Compound Miter Saw
Choosing The Right Miter Saw
There are a lot of miter saws on the market, and having plenty of choice is never a bad thing, but when it comes to putting your money down what are the things you should be looking for? Let’s take a detailed look at a miter saw’s key features.
Types of miter saw
When miter saws first came out they were basically just chop saws. The blade went up and down. The table rotated to give you angled cuts. Then manufacturers developed miter saws with a head that could be tilted at an angle, or beveled. In combination with a rotating table, you could then create compound cuts so these were called compound miter saws. Pretty much all miter saws available today do this. The final progression was to add a slide (also called rails), or other mechanism so the cutting head could be pulled forward and pushed back. This dramatically increased the width of material that could be cut. Thus the ‘sliding compound miter saw’ was born, and that’s what we’re looking at today.
Compound miter saws (without the slide) are still very good tools. They are less mechanically complex, and less expensive. If you don’t need to cut large dimension lumber they are a great alternative. The Metabo pictured on the right is only $120 and will comfortably handle 2×4 lumber. However, if we’re talking about the absolute best miter saw then in my humble it has to be one of the sliding models.
OK, so let’s look at some details.
Power
Most descriptions of miter saws say they have a ‘powerful 15 amp motor’. Which is true, but do you know why? It’s nothing to do with the saw itself, it’s actually because 15 amps is all you can pull through a standard electrical outlet without tripping a breaker. You might find a few cheap miter saws have a 12 amp motor, but 15 amp is more or less the standard for good tools. That’s for corded saws.
We’re now seeing an increasing number of cordless miter saws. Most of these are 18V or 20V. However, Makita has introduced a 36V model by stacking two 18V batteries together, and no doubt more will follow. More voltage is never a bad thing with power tools but they are a lot more expensive than corded versions right now.
Blades
DeWalt sells a couple of compact cordless miter saws with 7-1/4” blades but 10” or 12” are the two standards. Blades usually have tungsten carbide tipped (TCT) teeth which stay sharper for longer than high speed steel (HSS) alternatives, though the latter are cheaper.
The more teeth there are, the smoother the cut will be. Many miter saws come with 24-tooth or 32-tooth blades that would be considered general-purpose. They are fine for cutting store-bought lumber but you probably want a spare with more teeth for hardwoods.
Capacities
How big a piece of lumber or molding a miter saw will cut is probably a key feature for many potential buyers. Specifications need to be checked carefully because two tools with the same blade size can have noticeably different cutting capacities.
Also, bear in mind that descriptions of dimensional lumber — the stuff you usually buy in the big box store — can be confusing. This is because dimensioned lumber is measured when it’s first cut. Then it shrinks when it’s dried and then they plane a bit of the surfaces to make it smooth. It ends up smaller than you might hink. For example 2 x 14 dimensional lumber is actually 1-1/2 inches by 13-1/4 inches when you buy it.
Why do I mention this? Because some miter saws use dimensioned lumber sizes in their descriptions. For example, my choice for best miter saw overall, the DeWalt, can cut 2 x 14 dimensional lumber. Some people might think that equates to a maximum cutting width of 14 inches, but we now know it doesn’t: it’s actually 13-1/4 inches.
As well as maximum depth and maximum width you’ll probably also want to check the maximums at 45 degrees for beveling. Also bear in mind that some miter saws will cut beyond 45 degree angles, and that the angle left and right may not be the same. I’ve never needed to go beyond 45 degrees myself but maybe there are weird compound cuts that make it important to some people.
Other features
n Quick stops and detents: Being able to set up a miter saw quickly is an obvious benefit, especially if you use one a lot. The cutting heads and tables usually have easy-to-read scales for angle setting but can also incorporate quick-set stops (sometimes called detents) at commonly used angles. These may be spring-loaded so you just slide the table around and they pop into place. Easy.
n Laser and shadow guides: 
Laser guides have been around for years and show you where the cut line will be. Very useful when placing the workpiece. The only drawback is that the laser has to be set up carefully, and should be checked regularly, or there’s a risk it won’t be accurate. Shadow guides are a more recent introduction. They shine a light on the blade which then creates a shadow line on the work. No setting up or calibration is required. They don’t need to be reset if you change the blade either.
n Workpiece supports and clamps: Miter saws almost invariably have extending bars that slide out from either side of the table to support the workpiece. You might want to check how far these reach. There should also be a clamp that can be positioned on either the left- or right-hand side. They prevent the work moving while you cut. Cheaper versions are just steel. Better ones have a plastic foot so they are less likely to leave a mark.
n Dust bag/dust port: All the sliding compound miter saws I’ve seen come with a dust bag. I’m not a fan. In my experience, they fill up quickly and end up spewing dust out anyway. It’s much more effective to attach some kind of shop vac or dust extractor. So you’ll want to check the dust port size. There are plenty of low-cost adaptors available if you need one.
n Stand: A lot of people either use a miter saw on a bench or the floor. I’ve done it. Not a problem. However, a purpose-designed stand usually sets it at an optimum height and can be particularly useful for site work. Some attach semi-permanently and have wheels so it’s easier to move the whole thing around. Most manufacturers offer them but there are also ‘universal’ models available.
My Best Miter Saws In More Detail
The Skil 10″ Sliding Compound Miter Saw is a very affordable tool. It has a 15 amp motor running at 4,800 rpm. It bevels 48 degrees left and 45 degrees right. It will cut 2×12 lumber at 90 degrees, and 2×8 lumber at 45 degrees. Remember what I said about lumber sizes earlier? 2×12 lumber is actually 11-1/4 inches wide so that’s your maximum cut. It’s still pretty impressive for a compact miter saw and it means you should have no trouble cutting floor or decking boards, for example. Maximum depth of cut is 4-1/2”.
The table has 11 stops for common angles. The miter saw weighs about 40 pounds so it’s not difficult to move around if you’re short on space and need to store it under the bench. I would be inclined to upgrade the blade which is only HSS though it is 40-tooth. The shadow guide is a nice feature on a budget miter saw. It’s currently $224 at Amazon.
The DeWalt 12” Sliding Compound Miter Saw is a terrific all-rounder and hugely popular. 
The brand’s reputation for quality and durability is more or less legendary and if you’re a regular DIY user or a pro it would be money well spent. The 15 amp motor runs at 3,800 rpm. It will bevel to 48 degrees both left and right. It will cut 2×14 lumber at 90 degrees and 2×10 at 45 degrees. Maximum depth of cut is 6-3/4” and tall sliding fences provide good support.
There are 10 detents in the table for fast setting. The DeWalt weighs around 56 pounds which isn’t bad considering its size and how sturdily built it is. The blade is a high-quality 32-tooth TCT model that is great for general carpentry and site work. It doesn’t have a laser or shadow guide. From what I’ve read, many contractors and other professionals don’t bother with them anyway. There are aftermarket models that could be fitted for around twenty-five bucks. So what does it cost? It was $448 at Amazon last time I looked, though that is quite a big discount.
The Bosch 12” Cordless Glide Compound Miter Saw is a lot of money – but I’m just staggered by the capabilities of this tool. Power comes from an 18V motor, and the battery is a high-capacity 8Ah unit. A brushless motor maximizes efficiency, and there are 3 speeds plus an Eco mode to eke out the run time as much as possible. There’s also a fast charger, though Bosch doesn’t tell us how fast. If you’re a professional you might need a spare.
Cutting capacities are really impressive for a cordless tool. It bevels 45 degrees left and right. Maximum width of cut is a true 13-1/2”, and maximum depth is 3-1/2”. Bosch makes a point of focusing on the axial glide system that their miter saw uses instead of slides, saying it’s smoother and more rigid. The blade is a 60-tooth model but surprisingly is only high speed steel. I would have expected TCT at this money. Overall weight is about the same as the DeWalt. Price? Ahh. It’s currently $759 at Amazon. That’s a lot for a miter saw but then it truly is a go-anywhere tool and for some, it will be worth the investment.
Prices correct at the time of publication.
